![]() I guess 1/4'' pin, I use 1/4'' drill bit? Since no line borer, I guess I flop them up on the drill press for good strait holes? 32mm center-center? I guess I just start 32mm from the bottom. There are several good supply houses in Nashville, but it's such a drag fighting traffic, and unless I'm loading down my truck, UPS shipping costs less than my gas. It comes with the euro-screw already attached and in different finishes. They have their own factory and make most of the shelf pins for everybody else. Where did you find the clip with two holes in it? That would make a very good shelf connection. The screw screws into a 5mm hole, then you can secure the shelf from below so it won't warp. I forgot about this one until contributor H mentioned it. Nobody wants to see KV standards anymore, but if you're going to support a lot of weight, they really work well. Other than that, KV standards are the only other good solution. If you could get the screws in shelf pin it would hold up very well. We used to make computer furniture with adjustable shelves that would hold a CPU, monitor, and printer. Thanks on the Fastcaps - I had forgotten about them.Ĭontributor R has the best solution. ![]() They've got adhesive backed caps in any color and any size. My point is that if everything must be proportioned and symmetrical, will the shelves ever be moved up or down 32mm? Are there any hole plugs that I can get to cover the unused holes in this painted white headache?įor covering the unused holes, look at FastCap. This customer is so symmetrical that I have to stack the DVD and TVO because they are different colors (he believes if they were the same color, they would be fine side by side, but with one being silver and the other being black, stacking will look better). ![]() I prefer fixed shelves in my old face frame style cabinets, and most of the adjustable ones I see out in the field have been positioned evenly spaced and look to have never been moved after the install. The 5mm steel spoon supports work quite well. All the pin has to do is provide sheer strength. 5mm pin and 1/8" hole for running a screw from underneath. The strength of the L shaped ones is partially derived from the fact that the L runs up the ends of the shelf and the shelf keeps the pin from tipping inward. Most of the time, the standard size I have on hand is good enough.I don't know that the 1/4" are that much stronger than the 5mm, but I do know that the metal L shaped ones are much stronger than the plastic ones or even the combo clear/metal ones where the shelf sits on top of the pin. When using straight pins for sewing, I find it usually does not matter very much what size pins I am using the important thing is that a pin can go through all of the layers of fabric I am pinning together. I find these work best for standard sewing pins anyway, though larger pins do not always stay in as well and might still prick you, which is what these cushions are meant to avoid. While a lot of people, myself and my mother included, tend to store pins in sewing pin cushions, it is important to know what kind of pins you put on a cushion, since when their ends stick out it might be harder to remember the type or size. I always forget that safety pins were originally meant for things like sewing, considering that people use them for all sorts of things these days, from constructive to decorative.
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